Natural hair basics 1: Use sulphate free shampoos

Hey hey,

When I first went natural I was a bit overwhelmed by all the info on products, regimens, what to do and what not to do. I always wanted to know why? Why shouldn’t I use shampoos with sulphates? Why should I use certain oils? So I decide to do a little series about my basic rules of caring for natural hair and do some research on the logic behind the rules. So you know what the rules are and why they matter. These are my top 5 tips on caring for natural hair (the regimen side of things):

 1) Avoid shampoos with sulphates

 2) Always condition your hair

 3)Use oils to seal in moisture

 4)Always use a leave-in conditioner

 5) From time to time use a protein rich conditioner

They boil down to 3 essential things: shampoo, condition and oils. So here goes post one on the first rule. Use sulphate-free shampoos.

Introduction to Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)

The most common sulphate used in shampoos is Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), it binds to and dissolves the dirt and grease on your hair and scalp and allows it to be washed away in water. SLS produce a rich, thick foam. Foam doesn’t actually remove any dirt from your hair; it’s just a visual aid that makes it easier for you to work the shampoo through your hair. SLS is a potent degreaser and has a drying effect i.e. its takes moisture away from what its put on. SLS is a very effective cleaner so it’s used in a lot of products.

Uses of SLS

·      Soaps

·      Shampoos

·      Conditioners

·      Toothpaste

·      Dish washing soaps

·      Floor cleaners
·   Engine degreasers

·      Pesticides (it dehydrates and kills bugs, scary to think that’s what you put on your hair)

SLS on skin 

SLS has a drying effect, thus takes moisture and protective oils from the top layer of skin and can cause:

·      Dryness

·      Redness & rashes on sensitive skin

·      Eczema

·      Allergic reactions

·      Inflammations/dermatitis

SLS on Hair

SLS washed out all the dirt and grime in hair but it also washes out all the moisture and natural oils we need leaving hair dry and prone to breakage. Residues of SLS may remain on your scalp after rinsing and can continue to dry out hair for days after it has been used. SLS apparently also breaks down the protein in hair and damages hair follicles which stunts hair growth.

Afro hair

Afro hair is the curliest kind of hair in the world, its kinky because the curls are so tight. Afro hair can also be the driest kind of hair because its struggles to retain the moisture it needs to grow and be healthy. Thus shampoos that have sulphates in them do you no favours.

Relaxed or coloured hair

Afro hair is in its strongest state when it is natural, chemically treated or heat-treated hair is already weaker and needs more TLC thus shampoos that have sulphates in them do you no favours.

Myth

Some people believe that SLS can cause cancer but there seems to be no evidence to support this

Alternatives

SLS has been in use since the 1930s but is being replaced by milder versions such as:

·      Sodium laureth sulphate (SLES)

·      Ammonium lauryl sulphate

·      TEA laureth sulphate

They may be milder but they are still sulphates. A lot of shampoo brands make sulphate-free shampoos, dispersed throughout this post are pictures of some sulphate free shampoos.

Quick summary

Sulphates dry out you hair and can damage hair follicles which could lead to breakage and stunt hair growth so go for a sulphate-free shampoos.

Remember to subscribe by using the follow by email option just above the blog archive on right.

Kinks and Curls,
Feyi

References

http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=3423265

http://www.newtechbio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sodium_Lauryl_Sulfate_and_its_Uses

https://www.lush.co.uk/ingredient/detail/id/630/name/Sodium%20Lauryl%20Sulfate

http://www.babycentre.aco.uk/a1037209/sodium-lauryl-sulphate-sls

http://www.afro-botanics.com/blog.html

http://www.hairnaturel.co.uk/hair-maintenance/ingredients-to-avoid.html

Timi's Journey to Natural Hair

Hi there!

Most people that know me think I’ve had natural hair all my life. False. A long time ago, there was a little girl who had very difficult-to-manage hair. To solve this problem, she was introduced to the creamy crack. Tbh my hair was in great condition while relaxed. It was always glowing, never had dead ends and was full of volume. At least this was what people had to say about my hair whenever they were to comment on it.

One day an elderly lady walked past me, with a silver crown of long, luscious and (you guessed it) natural hair! That was the moment. The light bulb suddenly switched on. I longed to grow old with precious silver locks just like hers and there was no way I could do it if I continued my relationship with the creamy crack.

So it was over. It wasn't the relaxer, it was me! I had decided, right then at the tender age of 13, that I would no longer be a member of the CCC (creamy crack club). I stopped relaxing my hair. Kept it in cornrows to make it easier to manage, and slowly but surely my locks began to emerge. It was something like 8 - 10 months later when I had a head full of natural hair and my CCC days were over!

Protective Style - One Big Juicy Cornrow

Protective Style - Flat Twists

How I Care For my Hair

SHAMPOO

I've almost always used Pantene (love the smell!!!) as my shampoo. It leaves my hair feeling soft and tangle free and not too dry (most shampoos have that effect of drying out your hair and you never wanna have dry hair, dry hair = hair loss).

Protective Style - Mini Twists

DEEP CONDITIONING

I deep condition my hair with a homemade concoction of the softest avocado I can find in the market (or anywhere) smashed up with a spoon and adding olive oil liberally to make a smooth paste. I always apply the paste into my hair from root to tips. I then proceed to massage, concentrating on the tips. I cover my head with two plastic bags and leave my hair like this for minimum 1 hour (I've found that the longer you leave it the softer your hair is afterwards!).

Glam Protective Style

CONDITIONING

I have the QP Elasta range on conditioners: Intense (wash-out) and Recovery (leave-in). I personally love the QP Elasta range as it smells like you're in the salon getting a salon treatment for yourself.

I also discovered what I could only describe as a Godsend. Its name: Crabtree & Evelyn La Source Conditioner. It was given to me by a friend, who was simply trying to get rid of the many "things" she has. Not knowing what effect this would have on my hair, I tried it out one day. It's a really small tube so I didn't do what I usually do with conditioners - I only applied just a tiny bit of this to my hair and BY GOLLY my hair became the softest it’s ever been in my whole entire life (no exaggeration, I promise). I’ve been looking for somewhere to buy some more of this miraculous conditioner.... but to no avail :(

Protective Style - Cornrows

MOISTURISING

Carrot Oil, Coconut Oil, Soy Oil, Hair Fertilizer and Jojoba Oil - all from the Organic Root Stimulator range. I use the Carrot Oil (on my roots) before blow-drying to add moisture and protection from the heat. I use Olive Oil directly onto my hair strands after the blow dry, and this gives my hair a glow and radiance that can compete with the sun ;)

Oooh la la

Blown Out and Curled for New Years

SECTIONS

To achieve the best results, do everything in sections. This means that you are not neglecting some areas whilst drowning others. Every part of your hair needs moisture, conditioning and oiling. If you don't do it by sections you run the risk of achieving a look somewhat similar to that of a wet cat who has been run over by a lorry (and nobody likes that look).

And that’s a wrap! :D

Timi T.K.O

My hair regimen- Feyi's weekly routine

A tid bit on regimens

Just before I launch into the dets of mine just a quick tid bit. I don't have a specific regimen I tend to respond to my hair so for example I wash it when it seems a bit too dry or when I think it looks a bit dull and needs some TLC. My regimen has evolved with time. I have played with products and routines to see what works best for me and have been flexible. I have also learnt that my regime is specific to me. Natural hair varies and what works on mrs' A may not work on Miss B. You have to consider your hair texture and find what works best for you. That being said there are some natural hair musts:

1)    Avoid shampoos that contain sulphates and parabens

2)    Always use conditioner

3)    Seal in moisture with oils, avoid anything that contains mineral oil

4)    Use a leave in conditioner

5)    Try to deep condition with a protein rich conditioner every so often.

So here are the dets of my routine:

Shampooing and conditioning

Whenever my hair gets too dry or dull or just doesn't seem happy I give it a wash (usually twice a week). I use Bodyshop's Rainforest Moisture shampoo. Then I literally drench my hair with Herbal Essences's Hello Hydration. I tend to do this once I get in the shower so I can leave the conditioner on my hair for a bit while I shower. Then I wash it off. I used to co-condition my hair but I found that my hair would get rather hard. Started shampooing and found that it makes a world of difference.

Oils and leave in conditioner

So once my hair has been washed and conditioned. I pour some of my oil mix into my hands and distribute it though my hair trying to pay special attention to the tips. This basically is to keep/seal moisture into your hair. My oil mix is made up of:

·      Coconut oil

·      Olive oil

·      Lavender oil

·      Rosemary oil

·      Cedar wood oil

·      Tea tree oil

·      Avocado oil

I will put up another post about the different oils and their benefits on hair.

Once that's done, I pour some of my Bee Mine Leave In Conditioner into my hands and distribute it through my hair, again paying special attention to my tips. Note, I do all this while am still in the shower

Scalp care

Then I part my hair with my fingers and apply some Lush R&B on my scalp. Then with a big-tooth comb I give my hair a comb. Now am ready to head out of the shower.

I don't towel dry my hair because I have found that it makes it fizzy. So I just put a towel around my shoulders while I decide what to wear for the day lool and let my hair air dry.Then I style and go as desired. I usually tend to use some Curl Junkie Aloe Fix hair gel if am going for a bun or a puff or something that needs a slick look.

Deep conditioning

I try once a week or once every 2 weeks to deep condition with a protein rich conditioner. I wash my hair with shampoo as normal then I very very generously smoother my hair with either Vatica egg protein deep conditioner or if I can't find that I use Organics hair mayonnaise. I comb it through my hair with a large tooth comb. Apply some more to the tips of my hair then wrap my head in tin foil (helps generate heat). I leave it in for about 30mins-1hour depending on how much time I have. Then I rinse out. Apply my oil mix, leave in conditioner, give my scalp some lush love(use my lush r&b). Style and go.

Everyday

My hair loves water and is happiest when it gets hydrated everyday with water. So every morning after I have had a shower, whilst am still in the shower, I wet my hair ( just a quick dash of water esp on the tips. So it's not dripping wet but its nice and damp and moist) then I seal in the moisture with my oil mix, apply my leave in conditioner and use lush r&b to hydrate my scalp, comb with a large tooth comb and out of the shower.

If by the end of the day my hair is a bit dry and fizzy, a few squirts of water with a couple of drops of my oil mix tends to refresh and revive it

My product list and where to get them from

1) Bodyshop rainforest moisture shampoo 

(Bodyshop; http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/bath-body-care/haircare/rainforest-moisture-shampoo.aspx)

2) Herbal Essence hello hydration 

(Boots, tesco, anywhere really)

3) Coconut oil

(Bodyshop or your local continental hair store: http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/bath-body-care/beautifying-oils/coconut-beautifying-oil.aspx)

4) Olive oil 

(Bodyshop or your local continental hair store: http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/bath-body-care/beautifying-oils/olive-beautifying-oil.aspx).

5) Lavender oil 

(Holland and Barretts, Boots or your local continental hair store: http://www.hollandandbarrett.com/pages/product_detail.asp?pid=279&prodid=732&cid=296).

6) Rosemary oil 

Holland and Barretts or your local continental hair store: http://www.hollandandbarrett.com/pages/product_detail.asp?pid=482&searchterm=rosemary%20oil&rdcnt=1

7) Cedar wood oil

Holland and Barretts or your local continental hair store: 

http://www.hollandandbarrett.com/pages/product_detail.asp?pid=493&prodid=531

8)Tea tree oil

Holland and Barretts or your local continental hair store: 

http://www.hollandandbarrett.com/pages/product_detail.asp?pid=272&prodid=452&cid=63

9) Avocado oil

Local continental store

10) Bee Mine Leave In Conditioner

British curlies online store: http://www.curlyemporium.co.uk/products/Bee-Mine-Deja%27s-Hair-Milk-8oz.html

11) Lush R&B

Lush stores: https://www.lush.co.uk/product/324/R-and-B-Hair-Moisturiser

12) Curl Junkie Aloe Fix Gel

British curlies online store: http://www.curlyemporium.co.uk/products/Aloe-Fix-Styling-Gel-16oz.html

13) Vatica Hair Protein Deep Conditioner

Local continental hair store

14) Organics hair mayonnaise

Local continental hair store 

Kinks and Curls,

Feyi.