Natural hair basics 1: Use sulphate free shampoos

Hey hey,

When I first went natural I was a bit overwhelmed by all the info on products, regimens, what to do and what not to do. I always wanted to know why? Why shouldn’t I use shampoos with sulphates? Why should I use certain oils? So I decide to do a little series about my basic rules of caring for natural hair and do some research on the logic behind the rules. So you know what the rules are and why they matter. These are my top 5 tips on caring for natural hair (the regimen side of things):

 1) Avoid shampoos with sulphates

 2) Always condition your hair

 3)Use oils to seal in moisture

 4)Always use a leave-in conditioner

 5) From time to time use a protein rich conditioner

They boil down to 3 essential things: shampoo, condition and oils. So here goes post one on the first rule. Use sulphate-free shampoos.

Introduction to Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)

The most common sulphate used in shampoos is Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), it binds to and dissolves the dirt and grease on your hair and scalp and allows it to be washed away in water. SLS produce a rich, thick foam. Foam doesn’t actually remove any dirt from your hair; it’s just a visual aid that makes it easier for you to work the shampoo through your hair. SLS is a potent degreaser and has a drying effect i.e. its takes moisture away from what its put on. SLS is a very effective cleaner so it’s used in a lot of products.

Uses of SLS

·      Soaps

·      Shampoos

·      Conditioners

·      Toothpaste

·      Dish washing soaps

·      Floor cleaners
·   Engine degreasers

·      Pesticides (it dehydrates and kills bugs, scary to think that’s what you put on your hair)

SLS on skin 

SLS has a drying effect, thus takes moisture and protective oils from the top layer of skin and can cause:

·      Dryness

·      Redness & rashes on sensitive skin

·      Eczema

·      Allergic reactions

·      Inflammations/dermatitis

SLS on Hair

SLS washed out all the dirt and grime in hair but it also washes out all the moisture and natural oils we need leaving hair dry and prone to breakage. Residues of SLS may remain on your scalp after rinsing and can continue to dry out hair for days after it has been used. SLS apparently also breaks down the protein in hair and damages hair follicles which stunts hair growth.

Afro hair

Afro hair is the curliest kind of hair in the world, its kinky because the curls are so tight. Afro hair can also be the driest kind of hair because its struggles to retain the moisture it needs to grow and be healthy. Thus shampoos that have sulphates in them do you no favours.

Relaxed or coloured hair

Afro hair is in its strongest state when it is natural, chemically treated or heat-treated hair is already weaker and needs more TLC thus shampoos that have sulphates in them do you no favours.

Myth

Some people believe that SLS can cause cancer but there seems to be no evidence to support this

Alternatives

SLS has been in use since the 1930s but is being replaced by milder versions such as:

·      Sodium laureth sulphate (SLES)

·      Ammonium lauryl sulphate

·      TEA laureth sulphate

They may be milder but they are still sulphates. A lot of shampoo brands make sulphate-free shampoos, dispersed throughout this post are pictures of some sulphate free shampoos.

Quick summary

Sulphates dry out you hair and can damage hair follicles which could lead to breakage and stunt hair growth so go for a sulphate-free shampoos.

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Kinks and Curls,
Feyi

References

http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=3423265

http://www.newtechbio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sodium_Lauryl_Sulfate_and_its_Uses

https://www.lush.co.uk/ingredient/detail/id/630/name/Sodium%20Lauryl%20Sulfate

http://www.babycentre.aco.uk/a1037209/sodium-lauryl-sulphate-sls

http://www.afro-botanics.com/blog.html

http://www.hairnaturel.co.uk/hair-maintenance/ingredients-to-avoid.html

Timi's Journey to Natural Hair

Hi there!

Most people that know me think I’ve had natural hair all my life. False. A long time ago, there was a little girl who had very difficult-to-manage hair. To solve this problem, she was introduced to the creamy crack. Tbh my hair was in great condition while relaxed. It was always glowing, never had dead ends and was full of volume. At least this was what people had to say about my hair whenever they were to comment on it.

One day an elderly lady walked past me, with a silver crown of long, luscious and (you guessed it) natural hair! That was the moment. The light bulb suddenly switched on. I longed to grow old with precious silver locks just like hers and there was no way I could do it if I continued my relationship with the creamy crack.

So it was over. It wasn't the relaxer, it was me! I had decided, right then at the tender age of 13, that I would no longer be a member of the CCC (creamy crack club). I stopped relaxing my hair. Kept it in cornrows to make it easier to manage, and slowly but surely my locks began to emerge. It was something like 8 - 10 months later when I had a head full of natural hair and my CCC days were over!

Protective Style - One Big Juicy Cornrow

Protective Style - Flat Twists

How I Care For my Hair

SHAMPOO

I've almost always used Pantene (love the smell!!!) as my shampoo. It leaves my hair feeling soft and tangle free and not too dry (most shampoos have that effect of drying out your hair and you never wanna have dry hair, dry hair = hair loss).

Protective Style - Mini Twists

DEEP CONDITIONING

I deep condition my hair with a homemade concoction of the softest avocado I can find in the market (or anywhere) smashed up with a spoon and adding olive oil liberally to make a smooth paste. I always apply the paste into my hair from root to tips. I then proceed to massage, concentrating on the tips. I cover my head with two plastic bags and leave my hair like this for minimum 1 hour (I've found that the longer you leave it the softer your hair is afterwards!).

Glam Protective Style

CONDITIONING

I have the QP Elasta range on conditioners: Intense (wash-out) and Recovery (leave-in). I personally love the QP Elasta range as it smells like you're in the salon getting a salon treatment for yourself.

I also discovered what I could only describe as a Godsend. Its name: Crabtree & Evelyn La Source Conditioner. It was given to me by a friend, who was simply trying to get rid of the many "things" she has. Not knowing what effect this would have on my hair, I tried it out one day. It's a really small tube so I didn't do what I usually do with conditioners - I only applied just a tiny bit of this to my hair and BY GOLLY my hair became the softest it’s ever been in my whole entire life (no exaggeration, I promise). I’ve been looking for somewhere to buy some more of this miraculous conditioner.... but to no avail :(

Protective Style - Cornrows

MOISTURISING

Carrot Oil, Coconut Oil, Soy Oil, Hair Fertilizer and Jojoba Oil - all from the Organic Root Stimulator range. I use the Carrot Oil (on my roots) before blow-drying to add moisture and protection from the heat. I use Olive Oil directly onto my hair strands after the blow dry, and this gives my hair a glow and radiance that can compete with the sun ;)

Oooh la la

Blown Out and Curled for New Years

SECTIONS

To achieve the best results, do everything in sections. This means that you are not neglecting some areas whilst drowning others. Every part of your hair needs moisture, conditioning and oiling. If you don't do it by sections you run the risk of achieving a look somewhat similar to that of a wet cat who has been run over by a lorry (and nobody likes that look).

And that’s a wrap! :D

Timi T.K.O